This frittata was born out of a desire for quiche, but no desire to make crust. The potatoes are sautéed until they begin to soften and brown, then you mash them into the base of the pan. The result is a coarse texture that browns beautifully, creating a sort of “crust” for the egg mixture on bottom. If you can’t find ramps, you can substitute 2 leeks, but add a few extra minutes of sautéing time before adding the eggs. Best served with a large, vinegary salad.